Tyler visits Istanbul

What a treat it was to have Tyler come visit for a few days! He grabbed a Turkish Airlines flight direct from Los Angeles, and arrived here on March 23, after 15 or 16 long hours in the air. He was up bright and early the next day, ready to explore the Grand Bazaar. Because he was only here a few days, I let Devlin play hooky from school and go with us.

No one can traverse the bazaar without spending time in a carpet shop. Even if you have no plans of looking at carpets, somehow you are reeled in by the bazaar professionals. Maegan had given him strict instructions NOT to buy a rug while he was here. Good thing. Because here's the one he almost went home with. We were assured that it was old, quite rare and very ususual. (aren't they all?) I thought it was overpriced, at about $1400. Rugs are always priced in dollars, not lire. It sounds less expensive when it rolls off their slippery tongues.

Later that day, Tyler got Devlin to do the impossible. They both visited a traditional Turkish Hamam. They went to Cembirlitas, which is just around the corner from the Grand Bazaar, and was built by Sinan in the 1600's. It's a well known local hammam, visited by regulars and tourists alike. When they emerged and I asked how it was, Tyler said it was like taking a bath with a bunch of strangers. Which is why I have never gone. 

The next two days we hit the Sultanhamet area pretty hard. We spent most of Friday morning at the Hagia Sophia. I hadn't been there since the 30 year old scaffolding was taken down, and was astonished at how much more impressive the space is. Tyler's amazement came from a construction point of view. Keeping in mind that it was built in the 500's, and was finished in 5 years, it really is awe inspiring.

One of my favorite mosiacs from the Aya Sophia

Usually when I go to Sultanhamet, I take the metro, because traffic is horrendous, and parking is non existent. However, with Jim in Iraq, I've been told that Gokan is at my disposal. Not wanting to face the 3 different crowded metro stops, I had him pick us up in front of Sultanhamet square at 3:00. When he arrived, he was accosted by a policeman--" Go! No cars here!" Quick thinking Gokan told the policeman that I was the wife of an American diplomat, which made everything just fine. (I don't think it was the American part--just the diplomat part) 

Lunch inside the clay pot

We had pretty fair weather while he was here; sunny and in the 60's. This is one city that you want to see in good weather. We ate lunch at a place that Amy and Landon recommended. They serve a traditional Anatolian dish of meat and vegetables cooked in a clay pot. The waiter creates quite a show when he comes out with the steaming pot, and slices off the clay top with a long butcher's knife.

Saturday we were back downtown, this time hitting Topkapi Palace early enough that there was no line. From there we went up to the Spice Market, where Tyler bought a few goodies to take back home. It was wall to wall people, and Turkish people have yet to learn their societal crowd rules. They push, shove and walk right into you without ever saying excuse me. We left there and went to Taxim Square, where the street is at least wider, so you can miss some of the jostling. We happened to go into a bookstore, where Tyler found a first printing of Michal Chabon's new book--and it was autographed! He snapped it up for $30.00, only to find it on ebay later, starting at $160.00.

At 7:30 Sunday morning, off we went to the airport, the 3 day whirlwind was over. But what a wonderful few days it was. I'm only sorry that Maegan was not able to come as well. And equally sorry that Jim wasn't able to get away from Iraq, to enjoy his son's company also. But I don't know when the last time was that Tyler and I spent time together. Maybe when I flew out to L.A. when he first moved there. And as all parents of grown children know, those times together are precious, just because they are so few.