Getting Around

I have discovered the joy of taking public transportation. I am not being sarcastic, either! Up till now, I felt like a bird in a gilded cage. Ensconced in a lovely high rise apartment, within a short walk to one of the best shopping malls in the city, I sound churlish complaining about any part of my life. But learning to live without a car has been hard. I have access to Jim’s driver, if needed. But since Jim works an hour’s drive away, I am careful to not abuse the privilege.

Last week, when Emily was here, I realized that if we were to see everything on her list, we would have to explore alternative possibilities. She was more than game, and her enthusiasm gave me the courage I had hitherto lacked, so last Tuesday afternoon,we set off to find the nearest subway stop. Walking in this city is a little dicey. Imagine trying to walk along Westheimer at rush hour, only the sidewalks are half as wide and twice as close to the road, and you’ll get the general idea. Then imagine crossing Westheimer without the benefit of crosswalks. But we arrived, all body parts intact, and took a ride to Taksim square, which is a major subway interchange as well as bus hub. We scouted around the terminal a bit, in preparation for the next days big trip to the Spice Market, explored a bit of Taksim Square, then rode back home, proud of our accomplishments.

Lost, looking for the Grand Bazaar

The next day, Emily carefully charted our path. We took the subway to 4 Levent, changed to another line till we hit Taksim, took something called a funicular (a small box-like car that goes straight down a big tunnel and feels like a coffin) to Kabatas, then changed back to another subway line till we hit Emiminou, and got off. Pretty dang good for newbie foreigners, I thought. After exploring the Spice Market, we walked down to the Aya Sophia area and had lunch, visited the underground cisterns, then decided we had better try finding our way back home. This meant finding the nearest subway line, which sounds easy, but quite honestly, in a city with as many winding and intersecting streets and alleys as Istanbul, is a challenge. Especially for the directionally challenged, like Emily and I.

We finally found a aboveground tram, that would take us to the subway. Kharma must have directed us to stand next to the only other English speaking people on the tram. They were tourists, from England, and had gotten separated from their group, and were looking for a way back to their ship. Somehow, they had the illusion that we could help. I think Emily gave them the idea, when she was speaking so confidently of how we were getting around. Crazily enough, they listened when she told them where she thought they should get off. As I watched them depart the tram, I prayed she had guessed right. I’ve thought of them often this past week, imagining them still wandering around Istanbul looking for their ship, and cursing those damn Americans.

Spice Bazzar

Well, success breeds success. The next day we branched out to the bus lines from Taksim Square, and ended up just where we had intended. I love riding the big buses, as long as you have a seat. You are up high and can see for miles out their big windows. You get to see so much more of the city, and especially the places you wouldn’t normally go. However, they are pretty crowded, and not so much fun if you are standing the whole way. The inside sign reads sitting capacity 36, but total capacity 90. Now that’s crowded.

Since last week, I’ve added how to take the ferry system to my repertoire, as well as the little neighborhood mini buses. (that’s a whole nother blog) My world is suddenly expanding, and I love how that feels. I love feeling independent again. I love just walking around discovering a new shop or restaurant or park, just a bus stop or two away. I love that I have been lucky enough to live in a city with such a great public transportation system.

Life is good.