Shop Till You Drop

Our first outing as tourists was a trip to the Grand Bazaar yesterday. "Grand" is an understatement. Over 4,000 shops are contained within its narrow, labyrinth like streets. 4,000 shops! To put that in some kind of perspective, the Galleria in Houston contains just 375, and I can't cover that in day. It really is the world's first shopping mall, for it began as a market during the Byzantine era, continued to grow through the Ottoman empire, until it eventually was roofed and walled in. At night, it was locked down and guarded by over 100 soldiers, much like medieval castles. I read somewhere that it is visited by over 15,000 people in the course of a day. I think all 15,000 were there Saturday morning.

If you can't find it at the bazaar, I don't believe it is made. Jewelry, carpets, textiles, copper, icons, coins, daggers, musical instruments, soaps, antiques, leather and even underwear! And all can be had for whatever price you bargain. Now there's the rub. Haggling is an art, and not one at which I have ever been any good. I know that the merchandise is marked up, and that you are supposed to offer half of the asking price, but I just can't bring myself to do it. I walked by shops and stalls without touching a thing or even making eye contact with any salesman for fear I would have to begin negotiations.

Finally, I got brave enough to actually pick up a shawl. Immediately the shop owner was there, pulling out several others and displaying them for my viewing pleasure. "22 lira for the large shawl, Madam; 18 for the small."  I stood there, speechless, knowing I should offer 12 or 14, but unable to get the words out of my mouth. He took pity on me, and said, "Madam, since you are the first customer of the day, I will let you have it for 20."  Now I'm mortified, because I realize that he is actually doing my bargaining for me. I find my voice and say "18!" And of course, it's a deal.

I'm delighted with my shawl. It's probably made in China, but will look dashing on my dining room table. I think the exchange rate is something like 1.50 lira to $1.00 American, so I think that means I paid about $12.00, which is a bargain in my book. Maybe the next time I do this, I will stiffen my spine and start a little lower.