Lunch along the Bosphorus

Entrance to the Spice Market, Galata Tower in background

Emily and Jim at Topkapi Palace

Christmas preparations

Dinner at Meyyali when Amy and Landon visited

The trolley at Taksim square

Memories

My favorite bazaar, the Spice Market

Sandwiches for sale!

Juan and Devlin ready for the IICS Junior Senior Prom

No transaction at a bazaar was complete without tea

Our pitiful Christmas tree with the crazy lights

The time we helped the Turkish School celebrate 100 days of school

The ruins of the Rumeli Hisar fort

     

Devlin and I went to Nepal on a service trip with IICS

Saying Goodbye

Our balcony at Istinye Park

The time has come. We are leaving Istanbul for good, and returning to Texas. I've spent the past few weeks in complete denial, hoping for a reprieve, but ultimately, I've come to accept that we are indeed leaving.

The past few weeks have been a series of long goodbyes amidst various social gatherings. For in an expat society, every year sees the departure of those we've all learned to call friends. When living overseas, far from loved ones, friendships are forged much more quickly and often, more deeply, because you don't have the luxury of time. When leaving, I never know who it's harder on, the person leaving or the person being left behind. And even though the world is growing smaller, you know your chances of seeing most of your friends again, is in fact, very small.

St. Esprit Cathedral

I found myself the Sunday School Coordinator of St. Esprit Catholic Cathedral this past fall. Despite the uncertainty I felt about taking on the job, I gained so many new friends that when June came, I was able to watch with pride during the First Communion Mass, and the Confirmation Mass. Most Priests have seemed distant figures to me, but in our small English speaking community I've gotten to know and dearly love each of our priests. I will miss the intimacy at St. Esprit, plus the feeling of being truly needed.
Through my participation in the IWI, (International Women of Istanbul) I met several other women, that I probably wouldn't have met any other way, as well as new experiences. Beki Erikli's "Angel Therapy" workshop, Laure and Patricia's French Cooking class, Ayse's Turkish cooking class, and various museum and sightseeing trips all led to my feeling more comfortable and at home in a foreign country. 

I met my 4 best buddies from my Turkish lessons at the Ciragan Palace for high Tea on Monday afternoon. These were the women that I probably spent the most time with for 6 months last year; every Monday and Wednesday, from 10:00 to 12:00. Elisa, Martina, Lise and Viktoria, gave me the encouragement to continue each week, through their laughter and support. It was a lovely afternoon, again, overlooking the Bosphorus, and tears were in my eyes when I had to say goodbye.

Tomorrow another last goodbye will take place at the American Consulate, when Boy Scout Troop 1453 meets for the last time this year. Jim will be Master of Ceremonies, as one young man attains his Eagle Scout Badge. Scouting is not always easy or convenient, but a bond was forged between all of us adults as well as boys, as we all worked together for the same purpose- to see our sons become fine young men. My especial thanks to Pat, Vicki and Sarah, who have kept the troop going through all the scoutmasters who have appeared and disappeared over the past several years. 

Then, there are my Istinye Park friends, my book club buddies, with whom I've spent so many evening drinking a glass of wine, giggling over another crazy Turk story, commiserating over their sorrows, or sometimes even discussing the book. It's funny how just a simple, but regular get together can result in such closeness and connectedness. Our Trick or Treat evening is still considered the best Halloween celebration in Istanbul. 

I shall dearly miss the Bosphorus. To sit watching the boats sail by, with a cup of coffee or a glass of wine, was always my favorite way to spend time. 

 
I'm going to miss the Grand Bazaar, with all their crazy Turkish salesmen, trying out different sales pitches, offering up endless cups of tea, and calling me "my friend".   I'll miss the beauty of Arneveutkoy, with it's old Yalis and crooked streets. I'll miss the Aya Sophia, with it's fading mosaics and soaring spaces. I shall miss the privileged lifestyle that the ex pat wife is lucky/doomed to lead. Pick your word, either can fit, depending upon your outlook.  I, however, consider myself a very lucky woman to have experienced life here.
Farewell, Istanbul.

The Bridge

*Coward: a person who lacks the courage to do or endure unpleasant or dangerous things.

Nepal is no place for cowards. Had I known that in January, I never would have signed up as a trip chaperone, for I was born a coward, and have lived my entire life avoiding anything remotely dangerous. But how fortuitous for me, that I didn’t know, because I would have missed the trip of a lifetime!

The four hour bus ride from Kathmandu to Border Lands careened up and down mountain roads with no guard rail in sight; I had a window seat where It was all to easy to imagine plunging over the side of the cliff to certain death. I finally just shut my eyes and pretended to sleep. It was a little too early in the trip to admit my cowardice to my traveling companions.

Along with my physical cowardice, I also have acrophobia--an irrational or debilitating fear of heights. Our service trip began by walking 5 kilometers to arrive at Panchakanya School. You can imagine my horror, when, in order to reach the school, we had to cross a 100 foot suspension bridge swaying over the raging Bhote Koshi river. My heart sunk, my ears began to ring, my legs turned to jelly, and I hadn’t even taken the first step. I watched with incredulity as each one of our students scampered across without a backward glance. Several of them were even walking side by side, chatting!

Reminding myself that I was a chaperone, and I couldn’t do my job telepathically, I croaked for help. Immediately, Prem, our master guide was at my side, and began to calm me down. I have no friends or family members that could have convinced me to cross that bridge. I would have looked them in the eye and told them “No Way!”, along with a few other scalding words. But Life is full of surprises. Who would have guessed that on the other side of the world, there lived a man who could get me to do something I never thought possible? I knew that he was one of Nepal’s most experienced and fearless guides. It also helped that I had heard how he’d saved a woman from falling off a cliff by leaping after her. I felt reasonably confident that he would do the same for me. He patiently took both my hands and slowly led me across. I swear that walk lasted 20 minutes, but in reality, it was probably only 2. Upon reaching the other side, everyone -- our students, staff, villagers and children--all were there to congratulate me. I felt like the star of a reality television show--and not the one who wins the series.

There were other challenges remaining, but none quite so daunting as crossing that bridge, which I did another 7 times, each time, clinging tightly to Prem’s hands. I easily resisted the peer pressure to go canyoning, by volunteering to photograph everyone else. As a chaperone, I don’t think I had a prouder moment than when I watched all of our kids, Trish, and Jennifer successfully rappel down 150 meters of waterfalls. Absolutely amazing. The overnight trek up to the top of a mountain was exhausting, but exhilarating. We felt like we were on top of the world as we watched the sun rise over terraced villages as far away as China. It was breathtakingly beautiful. The number of magical moments consistently outweighed the fearful ones, and I found myself not wanting the adventure to end.
Has my view of myself changed? Not really. I’m still know myself to be a big chicken. I probably won’t ever choose to go to the top of the Empire State building or the Eiffel tower. But, I will always have the memory of accomplishing one seemingly impossible thing.

With heartfelt gratitude and appreciation, to the man who made it possible--Prem, the fearless!

Tyler visits Istanbul

What a treat it was to have Tyler come visit for a few days! He grabbed a Turkish Airlines flight direct from Los Angeles, and arrived here on March 23, after 15 or 16 long hours in the air. He was up bright and early the next day, ready to explore the Grand Bazaar. Because he was only here a few days, I let Devlin play hooky from school and go with us.

No one can traverse the bazaar without spending time in a carpet shop. Even if you have no plans of looking at carpets, somehow you are reeled in by the bazaar professionals. Maegan had given him strict instructions NOT to buy a rug while he was here. Good thing. Because here's the one he almost went home with. We were assured that it was old, quite rare and very ususual. (aren't they all?) I thought it was overpriced, at about $1400. Rugs are always priced in dollars, not lire. It sounds less expensive when it rolls off their slippery tongues.

Later that day, Tyler got Devlin to do the impossible. They both visited a traditional Turkish Hamam. They went to Cembirlitas, which is just around the corner from the Grand Bazaar, and was built by Sinan in the 1600's. It's a well known local hammam, visited by regulars and tourists alike. When they emerged and I asked how it was, Tyler said it was like taking a bath with a bunch of strangers. Which is why I have never gone. 

The next two days we hit the Sultanhamet area pretty hard. We spent most of Friday morning at the Hagia Sophia. I hadn't been there since the 30 year old scaffolding was taken down, and was astonished at how much more impressive the space is. Tyler's amazement came from a construction point of view. Keeping in mind that it was built in the 500's, and was finished in 5 years, it really is awe inspiring.

One of my favorite mosiacs from the Aya Sophia

Usually when I go to Sultanhamet, I take the metro, because traffic is horrendous, and parking is non existent. However, with Jim in Iraq, I've been told that Gokan is at my disposal. Not wanting to face the 3 different crowded metro stops, I had him pick us up in front of Sultanhamet square at 3:00. When he arrived, he was accosted by a policeman--" Go! No cars here!" Quick thinking Gokan told the policeman that I was the wife of an American diplomat, which made everything just fine. (I don't think it was the American part--just the diplomat part) 

Lunch inside the clay pot

We had pretty fair weather while he was here; sunny and in the 60's. This is one city that you want to see in good weather. We ate lunch at a place that Amy and Landon recommended. They serve a traditional Anatolian dish of meat and vegetables cooked in a clay pot. The waiter creates quite a show when he comes out with the steaming pot, and slices off the clay top with a long butcher's knife.

Saturday we were back downtown, this time hitting Topkapi Palace early enough that there was no line. From there we went up to the Spice Market, where Tyler bought a few goodies to take back home. It was wall to wall people, and Turkish people have yet to learn their societal crowd rules. They push, shove and walk right into you without ever saying excuse me. We left there and went to Taxim Square, where the street is at least wider, so you can miss some of the jostling. We happened to go into a bookstore, where Tyler found a first printing of Michal Chabon's new book--and it was autographed! He snapped it up for $30.00, only to find it on ebay later, starting at $160.00.

At 7:30 Sunday morning, off we went to the airport, the 3 day whirlwind was over. But what a wonderful few days it was. I'm only sorry that Maegan was not able to come as well. And equally sorry that Jim wasn't able to get away from Iraq, to enjoy his son's company also. But I don't know when the last time was that Tyler and I spent time together. Maybe when I flew out to L.A. when he first moved there. And as all parents of grown children know, those times together are precious, just because they are so few.

February Happenings

Jim and Devlin heading into the Marines Barracks

It's been a busy week. It began Sunday, with the annual Super Bowl Chili Cook-off at the American Consulate. It was hosted by the Marines and as a goodwill gesture, the lone BSA troop in Istanbul was invited.

Valentine's Day Coffee morning

Jim made a two batches of chili, one with beans and one without. Sadly, neither were the big winner of the evening. Nor did we see the Super Bowl, as Istanbul is 8 hours ahead of the U.S. But it was fun to get together with friends and enjoy some Americana.




On Wednesday, we had our International Women of Istanbul Neighborhood Coffee. This month it was hosted by Tricia Cannis, who went all out for Valentine's Day. Tricia moved to Istinye Park last year, and has been all over the world. I love to go to her place, because it's filled with interesting furniture and accessories from all their travels.

I adore her red walls. When I saw them, I immediately wanted to paint our place. When I suggested it, Jim visibly blanched, so I dropped the subject. Plus, she has all her things with her. I really miss my own stuff when I see an apartment that is actually accessorized and looks like home.

L-R: Tricia, Nilgun, Tara, Alina, Jo and Anjali

Here are a few of the early arrivals, toasting with our morning Mimosas. L to R, is Tricia from Michigan, Nilgun from Istanbul, Tara from New York City, Alina from Germany, Jo from South Africa and Anjali from India. 

Anjali learning to make truffles

The next day, Anjali and I went to an IWI workshop called "Tarts & Truffles". It was put on by an American woman who worked as a pastry chef at a DC restaurant until she moved here a few months ago. We learned how to dip truffles, make sable dough, chocolate, caramel and lemon curd filling. Best of all, we got to taste everything we made.

Patricia hard at work

Truffles are a lot trickier to dip than one would imagine. Maybe I should say that the dipping is easy, but having them look perfectly smooth after dipping is a real challenge.

*Update: Anjali loved the chocolate making class so much, she went on to seriously study the art, and ultimately opened up her own very successful artisan chocolate shop in Singapore, named "Anjalichocolate"!  She now teaches others how to make chocolates.

Of all the IWI events I do, I love the cooking classes the best. They lend themselves well to cheerful chatter and laughter, and I always come away from them feeling like I've learned something useful.

Turkish Cooking Class

Patricia and Laure taught French Cooking

IWI photo from our French Cooking Classs

For something completely different, we ended the week working at the Don Bosco School for Iraqi Refugees. Our school had donated paint, brushes and volunteers to paint the classrooms of this charitable institution run by our church. So early Saturday morning, Jim, Devlin and I all showed up to help.

I don't know who was in charge of picking out the paint, but it never would have passed muster in any U.S. institution. It was Lavender! And it was the poorest quality of paint you can imagine. Clearly, it was not purchased at a store that uses one of those machines that shakes the can, either. We stirred that gloppy mess for quite some time. 

Because there was a shortage of ladders, Jim put one of the Iraqi students on his shoulders, to sand the spots on the wall that were too high to reach. He couldn't talk Devlin into climbing on. Devlin was convinced he'd cause his Dad bodily harm.   

Being the Construction professional that he is, Jim actually cut in the paint at the top. My job was to hold the ladder, as there was no brace on it, just a piece of green string holding the two sides together.  Those are metal pipes he's standing on pipe, not treads. It was the most dangerous piece of equipment I've ever seen.

However, he made it around the room without falling off, and our room got the award for best paint job!

But every time I look at that color......ugh.

Volunteer painters: Shakila, Suzi, Jim and Juan

Jim being a makeshift ladder

Thanksgiving

We had a real Thanksgiving feast last Thursday. We had a houseful of guests, lots of good food and drink, and even a turkey!

 Finding a turkey can be tricky, but in October, I had the forethought to ask if we could order one through our Happy Turkish Butcher.  "Evet, Evet" (yes, yes) he assured me.   When the time came to order,  I sent Jim,  all by himself, with a picture of a  turkey, and "Hindi" ("turkey") written below it.    Transactions done in foreign languages always unsettling.  When Jim came home he said, "Well,  I'm not sure if I just ordered one turkey that weighs 6 Kgs or 6 turkeys."

Lucky for me, it was just one turkey, because that one turkey cost 148 Turkish Lira. That translates to about 100 American dollars.  Ouch.

I had made plans with my friend Jamila, (one of the Halloween planners) to have Thanksgiving together, along with a few other families that live near by.  Jamila had planned to host it, however two days before Thanksgiving, her husband and son came down with the flu.  So we changed the locale to our house.  It just so happens that my new Turkish maid comes on Thursdays, so while I was busy cooking  in the kitchen, she was busy cleaning the rest of the house.  May I say wholeheartedly, THAT is the way to do it!  I never had to worry about a thing, except the food, which is the way it should be on Thanksgiving.

We had around 20 people, kids, teenagers and adults.  Between Jamila and I, we made two turkeys, a ham, sweet potato casserole, mashed potatoes,  broccoli, carrots, swiss chard, cornbread, biscuits,  cornbread stuffing, cranberry sauce and pumpkin cheesecake.  Hatice (from Turkey) brought homemade dolmas (stuffed grape leaves), Elisa (Italy) brought chocolate salami--not salami really, just a yummy chocolate dessert in the shape of a salami, and Trisha brought the treat that every kid there was drooling over -- a box of real Krispy Kreme donuts!

Here's Tuncay, Hatice's husband getting ready to dig in.  Jamila is tossing her steamed broccoli and carrots with olive oil and lemon.  As you can see, everything is on the table but the turkey.  I really goofed.  I didn't remember to have Jim carve the turkey till everything else was on the table and ready to eat.  But the guests were very gracious about it all.

Here's Jim, Elisa (from Italy) and Joan (from Washington DC).  Joan's working on  her master's degree in Art History.    I guess because I was concentrating on getting photos, I forgot to tell Jim to carve those turkeys. But then once I remembered about the meat carving, I forgot to take any more pictures.

There were no football games on television, nor did anyone get the day off.  It was a regular school day for the kids.  But, as the house  filled with good company, laughter, and the aroma of roast turkey, it really was a day for which to be thankful.